Hi,
I'm having a problem with my Van Dyke prints bleaching out somewhat in fixing. I'm using 5-minutes with a dilution of 100g sodium thiosulfate to 2L water.
I've tried using less fixing time and had better results, so I don't think it's a water quality issue. Does anyone have a recommendation for a minimum 'safe' fixing time?
Thanks,
-Ted
2 replies to this topic
#2
Posted 20 July 2012 - 09:31 PM
Hi Ted,
I've been fixing my prints for 1 to NLT 1.5 minutes with a 3% (30 gms/liter) solution of thiosulfate and 2 gms of sodium carbonate per liter. Rather than fade, the image "pops" as soon as IU pour the fixer on it. According to C James you don't need to fix longer than 1.5 minutes or need a solution greater than 3%. That said I'm new to this but haven't noticed and ill effect by using Christopher's recommendation.
Thomas
I've been fixing my prints for 1 to NLT 1.5 minutes with a 3% (30 gms/liter) solution of thiosulfate and 2 gms of sodium carbonate per liter. Rather than fade, the image "pops" as soon as IU pour the fixer on it. According to C James you don't need to fix longer than 1.5 minutes or need a solution greater than 3%. That said I'm new to this but haven't noticed and ill effect by using Christopher's recommendation.
Thomas
#3
Posted 21 July 2012 - 01:46 AM
my solution is 6% and i fix for 5 min,after extensive tests i found that any less would leave a stain in the unexposed areas.
the more you fix the more density loss will be noticable, but if you gold tone before fix this density loss will not happen at all.
i cant imagine not toning a vdb as the image will fade very quickly , even with a good clearing routine.
Pablo
the more you fix the more density loss will be noticable, but if you gold tone before fix this density loss will not happen at all.
i cant imagine not toning a vdb as the image will fade very quickly , even with a good clearing routine.
Pablo
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